Monday, 21 March 2011

Pre-Vienna training and OUTSIDE

My current focus is training for the Vienna round of the Bouldering world cup in 8 weeks time. Sadly its possible that this could be the only international comp I get to go to. However, this fact has concentrated my mind on training. Even though realistically the gains that can be made in 8 weeks are fairly small, I’m determined to do everything that I can. I’ve even begun to properly work on dynamic climbing and jumps after some useful coaching from Dave Mason. Considering that my current ability to do dynamic moves is so low I reckon this is a good example of an area that I could make a genuine improvement in a limited period of time (i.e. 8 weeks). After all, there’s not much point training really hard in other areas just to give it all up in a comp because I couldn’t dyno the last move. 

And finally…for the first time in way too long to admit I actually had a session outside, at Burbage South. Once I’d finally worked out the beta I got myself up violence (V7, North quarry) before heading further along the crag where pebble mill traverse caught my eye. I thought I would just try it for a few minutes but my stubbornness kicked in and I couldn’t leave until I had worked out all the moves but in the end I was too tired to put it all together.

CWIF and BUCS

CWIF was good this year. Last year’s CWIF I ended up exhausted and demoralised at how badly I compared to the Wads around me. Despite not enjoying it last year it proved to be a very useful reality check. It taught me a good lesson in the importance of having realistic expectations. It also taught me not to get so focused on competitive achievements to the extent that the disappointment with the end result overshadows the enjoyment of the process.

This year I enjoyed CWIF a lot, and I also managed to get through to the semis finishing 10th overall.

The next comp was BUCS (British Universities and Colleges Sport) – a national comp for uni students. Traditionally Sheffield Uni tends to do pretty well in this comp and 2011 wasn’t much different. Our team (Martin Watson (another GB boulderer), Paul Latham, and me) won the team prize and both me and Martin topped our categories. I was pretty surprised to win since I actually came 2nd to Nat Berry in the very strangely setup ’final’. It turned out the ‘final’ was only for distributing the sponsored prizes though…who knows. We got some great trophies anyway.
BUCS 2011, Martin Watson and me