Kalymnos is unbeatable in a lot of
ways. The combination of amazing
climbing with great scenery and a holiday feel are second to none. As my second
trip there I knew what to expect and wasn’t disappointed.
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| photo: Mat Welsh |
We went in the last week of April and during
the first half of the trip the weather was breezy, sunny and perfect!
Unfortunately, it then got very HOT and we eventually realized that early
starts were the only way forward.
The route highlight of the trip for me was Houftasaurus
(7b). Despite the deceiving name (Houfta means jug in Greek) this tricky route began
with some powerful moves into a technical wall at the top. It’s found in ‘Jurassic
park’ sector which is a bit of a trek beyond Grande Grotta but worth the
detour. After a real fight and plenty of head games I managed a red-point
ascent. On the same day my friend Mat also ticked Carnivore (7c) and there’s
nothing like a team send to boost psyche levels!
A trip to Kalymnos wouldn’t be complete without
a visit to Grande Grotta. After onsighting DNA I was psyched to try something
longer and harder. What I didn’t
quite expect but ended up with was a 2 hour upside-down epic on ‘Priapos’. I
set off but fell at the crux about a third of the way up. Continuing through
the tufa jungle my energy totally ran out about an hour in. Most of me
desperately wanted to just lower off but I’m glad I kept going and another hour
later (seriously) I clipped the chains. I would be keen to try it again if I
go back but I feel like I could do with some all round
body-conditioning/fitness before I try to tackle the tufa forests again!
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| Priapos, 7c photo: Mat Welsh |
Grande Grotta was also an opportunity to
test out the new Scarpa Instinct VS which were not only ideal for the steep terrain but also perfect
for wrapping my toes and heels around the tufas. Not to mention that they were
still comfortable after 2 hours of climbing. They will definitely be my shoes
of choice for anything steep!
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| Grande Grotta photo: Mat Welsh |
My last day climbing in Kalymnos was odd. We were up at Olympic Wall sector in the sun and
I decided to try and onsight one last route, a nice looking 7a on the main
wall. For some reason my mind got stuck in a negative spiral that I just couldn’t
shake off. Despite this, I actually got to the top in a flood of disbelief and
disappointment at how my mental strength had crumbled.
I left perplexed by the impact of mental
attitude on climbing performance and wondering how I could get myself out of
this hole if I find myself in it again. If I work out any tricks I will of
course post them but for now I have chosen to see the route as a positive
light, that despite my negative thoughts…I still got to the top.
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| photo: Mat Welsh |
